The beauty of Boston’s bánh mìs
The magic behind these fantastic sandwiches–and where to find them
There’s no sandwich more beautiful than the humble bánh mì.
Part of its beauty lies in the sandwich’s symphony of flavors and textures: savory, sour, sweet, spicy, umami, crunchy, soft, and tender, all at the same time. But another part comes from what the sandwich represents. Between the baguette buns hides a rich history and a union of different cuisines.
The bánh mì as we know it was developed in the mid-1800s. It was first created when the French empire colonized Vietnam, introducing the baguette to a population that was unacclimated to wheat. Originally, the bánh mì was considered a meal for the rich ruling-class French. Following the 1954 partitioning of the French colonies, many refugees from North Vietnam fled to South Vietnam. In the South, local flavors and modifications to the baguette were introduced to the sandwich, transforming it into a staple Saigon street food. This variant was then introduced to the United States by immigrants, in particular refugees from the Vietnam War, who sold the sandwiches as a means of their survival.
The bánh mì has countless variations, mainly developed in Saigon: bánh mì chảo (a deconstructed dish with eggs and ham), bánh mì hấp (steamed bread topped with oil, herbs, and vegetables), bánh mì kẹp kem (bread stuffed with ice cream), and many others. But for now, let’s consider the form that’s more commonly known here. I’m referring to the crispy, airy short baguette layered with sliced meat, generously stuffed with tangy pickled radishes and carrots, sliced cucumbers, fresh cilantro, spicy peppers, and often a combination of liver pâté, savory head cheese (a meat jelly), umami Maggi sauce, and rich mayonnaise. For those who don’t eat meat, the bánh mì sometimes comes with a meat-alternative base, such as the charred eggplant or roasted mushroom bánh mìs served at Cicada Coffee Bar near Central, nd many eateries will allow you to customize your sandwich. Tofu is a popular protein option.
As a Chinese-American who grew up simultaneously eating steamed pork buns and ham sandwiches, Mid-Autumn Festival moon cakes and Thanksgiving turkeys, the bánh mì feels like home. It represents the intersection of two cuisines that I yearn for when I decide whether to go to the Chinese food cart on Main Street or Al’s to get a big Italian sub. The bánh mì reminds me that sometimes, we don’t have to choose between one or the other.
The ideal bánh mì is tasty, prepared quickly, and under $8. Boston has its fair share of such sandwiches but they can be kind of tricky to find. After four years of exploring the area and eating at dozens of Vietnamese eateries, I’ve assembled a few top picks for the best in the area.
Best Near Campus
Bánh Mì Hu’o’ng Quê – Boston, MA
This Vietnamese eatery opened up just a few years ago and is my go-to whenever I’m around Chinatown. This place sports different varieties of bánh mì, including tofu and chicken, but also sells other staples like summer rolls, phở, and rice or noodle bowls (sometimes at a discount), Vietnamese desserts, and even bubble tea. My favorite sandwich here is the classic đặc biệt, the delicious combination of cold cuts with head cheese, pate, and fresh vegetables. It’s super easy to access from campus–just take the Red Line to Park Street and walk a few blocks south.
Best Flavor
The bread here is crisp–but not to the point where it scrapes the roof of your mouth–with a soft, chewy center. These sandwiches burst with thinly-sliced pickled vegetables, fresh cilantro, and spicy jalapeño peppers. Overall, Bánh Mì Lê is my favorite option with regard to flavor. You can get here by the Red Line and a few minutes of walking, and while you’re in the area, make sure to explore the countless other Asian eateries just down the street, like the cha chaan teng Rubato HK Café serving up fried chicken sandwiches on pineapple buns.
Best Overall
Bánh Mì Ba Lẹ & Bakery – Dorchester, MA
Ba Lẹ is something of a legendary bakery for those in the know. The store itself sports a vast array of Vietnamese desserts, groceries, and premade meals, including a takeout counter with egg rolls, noodles, and sliced meat. The real magic is in the bánh mì counter, where you’ll witness the expert chefs assemble sandwiches at an unbelievable pace. (You have to witness it to understand. They’re really fast.) These sandwiches are well-balanced, delicious, and affordable. This storefront, too, is accessible via the Red Line followed by a brief walk.
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Once you’ve discovered the beauty of the delicious bánh mì, please spread the word (we need more demand on campus; I’ve long dreamt of a Vietnamese eatery near Kendall). Then, I urge you to go out and explore your local neighborhood for these sandwiches until you find a bánh mì that you love so much that you write a blog post about it.
And, of course–bánh appetit!
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